Restoration
A watch that has stood still for years, an heirloom from a drawer, a timepiece that has once been poorly worked on. During a restoration, such a watch returns to the way it was intended.
When it is a restoration and not a service
A service is maintenance of a watch that basically does it: disassemble, clean, lubricate, adjust. A restoration starts one step earlier. The watch is not running, or has not been running for decades; there has been moisture or rust in it; parts are missing; or it has been previously worked on by someone who did not know the movement.
What is needed varies per watch. That's why it always starts with research: open the case, the timepiece under the microscope, and only then a quote stating what is done and what it costs.
Watch a video below of how a Cartier Vermeil watch is restored here in the workshop:
Parts that no longer exist
For a watch from the fifties or sixties, the supply of parts has often stopped. A broken axle, a worn gear or a broken spring cannot be ordered.
These parts are made or adapted in the workshop: on the lathe, from raw material, or by fitting a part from a donor timepiece. That is why there is no target price to indicate.
What remains original
Restoring is not the same as making new. A dial with an evenly discolored layer of lacquer is a dial with history; having it reprinted takes away what distinguishes a watch. Such tradeoffs are not technical issues but matters of taste, and they are made in advance, not reported afterwards.
The same applies to the cupboard. What happens in terms of polishing is a separate consideration, and restraint is the starting point.
How long it takes and what it costs
A restoration takes longer than a service, and how much longer depends mainly on the parts: waiting for material or making a part determines the lead time more than the work on the bench. You will receive an indication as soon as the research has been completed, and you can follow the progress online via the customer portal.
There is no rate for a restoration for the same reason. The price indications do provide an idea of what the individual parts of the work cost. If you are not sure whether your watch needs a restoration: report it with a few clear photos and you will be notified as soon as possible.
Frequently asked questions
Can you make parts that are no longer available?
Yes, that's a big part of the restoration work. Shafts, gears and springs are made on the lathe, or a part from a donor movement is made to fit. The research shows what is needed.
Does the dial need to be reprinted?
Usually not, and often it's better not to. An original dial with even discoloration is what sets many vintage watches apart; having it reprinted cleans it and at the same time removes what makes the watch special. If you would like a restored dial, we will discuss this in advance.
How much does a restoration cost?
It is impossible to say in advance. Mentioning an amount without having seen the timepiece would be a stretch, and especially in a restoration the difference lies in the parts. After the investigation you will receive a quote by email; nothing will start until you agree.
Do you also work on vintage watches?
That's most of the work. Especially for older timepieces, parts are no longer for sale and are made or adjusted in the workshop.
How long does it take?
That depends on what is needed and the parts. A service usually takes several weeks; a restoration that requires parts to be made, longer. You will receive an indication once the investigation has been completed, and you can track the status of your repair online.
Can I come by or do I have to send it?
Both are possible. Visits are by appointment, so that there is time to view the watch together; Shipping is done with an insured box that will be sent to your home.