Watch Case or Bracelet Polishing
Scratches on the case, a dull bracelet, a clasp that looks ten years older than the watch itself. Polishing takes that away — and the art of it is above all not to take away more than necessary.
Polishing means removing material
A scratch is a groove in the metal. It only disappears once the metal around it has been ground down to the same depth, and that is the most important thing to know about polishing: it is not a buffing but precision work to hundredths of a millimetre. The less that has to go, the better the watch comes out.
A case almost never has a single finish. The flanks are often high-polished, the tops of the lugs brushed, and between them runs a sharp edge that separates the two surfaces. Those edges are what give a watch its shape. They are also the first thing to go when a single wheel is taken over the whole case.
What is preserved
On a vintage watch the case is part of the value. A case that has been polished too often or too hastily goes round: the facets disappear, the lugs become thinner and narrower, engraving on the case back goes flat. None of that comes back.
So we look first at what is needed. Sometimes that is a full refinish, in which the high-polished surfaces and the brushed surfaces are built up separately and the edges are set back sharp. Often it is less: only the top, only the bracelet, or only an ultrasonic clean — which already makes a watch look a good deal better without anything coming off the case.
And sometimes the answer is to do nothing. On a watch whose marks of use are part of it, that is a perfectly defensible choice. It is your watch, so we make that choice together before anything happens.
A quote first
Polishing is charged per part: the case, the bracelet, or both. Steel is harder than gold and so takes more work.
An ultrasonic clean on its own is also possible, and nothing comes off the metal. A case can also be re-gilded.
Every watch is different. You get a quote first, and nothing starts until you have agreed to it. An overview of the rates is on the Rates page.
Frequently asked questions
Will polishing cost my vintage watch value?
It can, which is why polishing is done sparingly. Value goes as soon as the shape of the case changes: rounded facets, thinned lugs, faded engraving. We agree beforehand what happens to your case — and doing nothing is a choice too.
Will all the scratches come out?
Not always. A deep scratch or a dent sits deeper than can responsibly be taken out; it ends up less visible rather than invisible. You will hear what is and is not achievable when you get the quote.
Can polishing be done at the same time as a service?
Yes, and that is the usual order. During a service the case comes open anyway and the movement is out of it, so the case can be worked on without any risk. After that the watch goes back together in one go.
Do you work on vintage watches too?
That is the greater part of the work. With older movements especially, parts are no longer sold and get made or adapted in the workshop.
Can I come in, or do I have to post it?
Either works. Visits are by appointment, so there is time to look at the watch together; posting it is done with an insured watch box that we send to your door.